Additional benefit, full support against the cutter. Clamping the shaft down in a table slot and indexing to a fixed finger is not out of the question for producing several, once you've laboriously chewed out the first one to use as a setting guide. I'd definitely save my dividing head for good and use a simple, lockable indexer, a super spacer or other. Center between the splines and remove the slight waste, 6 passes. You have now created the parallel sided splines that your gear was made for.ģ. Offset to the left side of spline width and cut all six.Ģ. gbent (and others) got it right, there is no taper to the splines but since they are created by milling slots with tapered walls, it's easy to be led down the wrong process path.ġ. Am I right or am I just delusional.Ĭlick to expand. I'm kind of thinking there's some kind of chart that is somewhere on the web where one might just look of the ID of a shaft and the number of splines and it will tell the angle. But then I might have to spend my $20 bucks a couple of times to get the right one. I'm sure I could just take a guess and go from there. Mc Carr basically has them from 1 to 45 degree. I'm sure I could just wing a 1/4' end mill and file it to match, but that's kind of time consuming since I have to do a bunch of these. But it's kind of hard to figure the angle on the spline slots.

I got a rotary table and tail so I don't have any problem with that. I have to cut 6 1/16' splines in the 1 inch shaft. That way I can just order a tapered end mill from McMaster Carr. So I'm trying to figure out the angle on the involute splines in the gear. Works OK, but I'm worried that the torque on it might just eventually shear the key off. I couldn't find a cheap splint shaft so I just put a keyed 7/8' shaft inside with a key.

1in sae 6b spline motor